Please continue reading at Wine Virtuosity

Both Mise en bouteille and Passion for Portugal are now history. To continue following my mumbo jumbo please visit Wine Virtuosity. There's some postings on Sicily at the moment. Quite nice wines if I may say so....

If you're one of the kind people linking my old blogs I'd be grateful if you would have a look at the new site - and perhaps update the link? Thanks!

Good bye Mise en bouteille. Hello Wine Virtuosity!

Two weeks since the last post! No, I haven't been on vacation to a place without internet access. The seasonal diseases hasn't been kind to my family. To that, add my work on meeting my own New Year's resolution - turning my blogs into their own domains. Last week I launched my Mad about Madeira site. Today it's time to say good bye to Mise on bouteille and Passion for Portugal.

It's a bit sad to say bye to a name I've come to identify myself with, a name I registered at Blogger in May 2008. On the other side, it inspires me more to have an own domain and more powerful tools to work with.

Mise en bouteille is out. I have, for several reasons chosen not to register it at an odd dot, but mostly to eliminate a potential conflict of interests (there are a company in Europe with that name).  From now on you will find me at Wine Virtuosity. All my posts from my blogs have been merged into my new site so nothing is lost. Passion for Portugal disappears as well and I will try to write my usual share on Portugal on the new site.

Both Wine Virtuosity and my other site, Mad about Madeira, do have their own pages at Facebook as well. Twitter is still the same.

Welcome to my new sites! It would mean a lot to me if you would like to continue following me and perhaps also join at FB.

First new post published already. A starting post on my Sicilian adventures - the Perricone grape.

Christos Kokkalis; Checking out the 2008 vintage

It can't be that fun being Greek. Not at the moment that is. Greece's economy is the villain of the piece and wherever you read there's someone demanding the country to speed up its reform making. Do you want to support the Greeks? Then start reforming the way you look at Greek wines and buy some of the brilliant stuff Christos Kokkalis offers!

Last year I had Markus Stolz guest-starring on Mise en bouteille. I do hope he updated your view on Greek wines and inspired some to pick up a bottle or two. Personally I had a hopelessly archaic picture of Greece which basically could be narrowed down to my own trips to the Greek archipelago - and bottles of Naoussa Boutari as the premium wine on the restaurants. I know, I should be ashamed. Some great Assyrtiko's changed that though but especially Christos Kokkalis and his fabulous Trilogia Cabernet Sauvignon had me rethinking my view of Greek wines.

Let's do some repetition.  Working as a pharmacist for a big part of his life in Germany, Christos also attended some wine classes to build up his theoretical skills in wine-making. Then, in the 90's he purchased a small vineyard in the western Peloponessos and started planting his Cabernet's - turning the theoretical knowledge into real stuff. It didn't take long before Christos started to receive acknowledgment for what he was doing and I can't help but wonder how much a winemaker actually is an artist or just an educated winemaker? 

Christos clearly demonstrates in his wines that he's more than a pharmacist. He's an artist as well. I guess some just has that special 'je ne sais quoi' feeling when it comes to producing great wines - with or without any major prior training. Christos started the production of Trilogia in 1997. The vineyards are organically farmed and he treats the Trilogia with great respect; no fining or filtration, low yields and no water irrigation. The wine spends 18 months on French and American oak.

Besides the Trilogia he produces Mova, a blend of Agiorgitiko and Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Syrah. I've now tasted them all; the 2008 Mova, the 2008 Syrah and the 2008 Trilogia (the last one on four occasions as I seem incapable of keeping the corkscrew away!).

Here's the verdict of the Mise en bouteille jury:

2008 Mova, Agiorgitiko-Cabernet Sauvignon (EUR 14,50)

No doubt, this is the most Greek wine of the three. Greek in that sense there is a style I can name as typical for Greek wines if I may generalize. Not as dark in color as the other two, the Mova shows an early drinkability. On the nose it is generous with scents of leather, herbs, cherries, blackcurrants, bay-leafs and a summer dusty road. Rustic but easy to fall in love with.

Harmonious palate with fine and most present acidity. Cherries, tobacco, leather and humus. It has mature tannins and a fine refreshing blackcurrant and herbaceous aftertaste. What easy-drinking this is but still with lots of personality and also depth. Will benefit from a further two or three years cellaring but it doesn't hurt at all drinking it today. (88-89 p)

2008 Syrah (EUR 29)

Dark color. Popped on Saturday evening and allowed to breathe for an hour which was too short. Therefore half the bottle is kept to the next day and then the wine shows its awesome potential. Perhaps not fully reaching up to the Trilogia quality but friends of Syrah wont be disappointed on this one. Elegant yet massive aromas of dark berries, spices (bay-leafs, clove, black pepper), meat, wet rocks, balsamico vinegar and fine toasted oak. As most competent Syrah wines it chews oak for breakfast. I must admit the bouquet is right up my alley and it is easy to just keep sniffing and sniffing on this one.

Seductive pure fruit, toasted vanilla oak, humus, plum skin, blackberries, dark cherries, spices and sausages. Again, easy to like and extremely well put together. Just like the Trilogia there a terroir feel that is new to me. Need to dig further into that because the style is thrilling! The tannins are massive but there's enough fruit, acidity and harmony to predict a long life. The fruit seems
sweet but the feeling is a bone dry red. Christos, you rock! (91-92 points)

2008 Trilogia (EUR 29,90)

Tasting the wine I am immediately flattered by the almost Californian air this wine sends out. Still, there's a minerality I haven't bumped into before, a spiciness sending me to the Rhone Valley and then there's this fresh mint scent reminding me of great Medoc Cabernet Sauvignon.

The barrique is well integrated and not at all dominating, although they are present with the scents of ground coffee, dark chocolate and a slight vanilla note. It's the floral, humus, blackcurrants, blueberries, mint and spices that caught my attention. It's dense and has that feeling of a high class wine on the nose. Still in its primary phase but I tell you, it doesn't hurt to drink - unless you're afraid of tannins because the 2008's tannin structure knocks you!

On the palate it is, besides the impressive tannins, a dry wine full of sun-drenched blackcurrants and blueberries with floral notes, oak, bay leafs and fresh tobacco. It has plenty of fruit to cope with the tannins and the acidity is in harmony with the other components. Long and pure aftertaste with a floral touch to it. (93-94 points)

Let's start talking more about Peloponessos terroir because these wines are worthy all passionate wine consumers attention. I just need your help; please give me more Greek producers, wines and regions to discover. What should I drink? Suggestions please!

You can find the Kokkalis wines here.


PS. My tasting notes are always a span of two scores in order not to become too static. If a score is underlined it is my opinion of the wine at the very moment I tasted it.

PS.2. Read more about Christos here.

Roberto Cipresso; squaring the circle

Mathematician or not; you've probably still heard about it. Quadratura del cerchio, squaring the circle.

One of the classic challenges for the Euclidean geometry is the constructing of a square with the same area as a given circle by using only a finite number of steps with compass and straightedge. Proven in 1882 by the Lindemann–Weierstrass theorem to be an impossible task .Today we use the expression "squaring the circle" as a metaphor for doing something logically or intuitively impossible.

So, why does Roberto Cipresso name his attempt to unite Italy via the wine bottle Quadratura del Cerchio? Perche é impossibile?

I'm a big fan of Roberto. His Sicilian project Pigreco delivers and so does his Eureka from Tuscany. But perhaps it is his adventures in Mendoza together with Achaval-Ferrer that takes him to the top?

Uniting Italy. Via a wine. Roberto's Quadratura del Cerchio combines compatible terroirs from different parts of Italy . There's no limits. His only concern is that they blend well together. In 2005 he mixed Syrah from Sicily, Brunello from Tuscany and Sangiovese from Maremma. In his latest version, the 2006, he blends Syrah from Sicily, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese from Colline Chiantigiane. 

Friends of those modern reds from Tuscany more or less bathing in new barriques, will be disappointed when having the wine. So will those which hopes to find a northern Rhone resembly or a mini-Ausone hiding in the bottle. Roberto's 2006 clearly shows spicy Syrah from a warm region mixed with dark Tuscany cherries. Fine and lingering acidity. I could be mean and say i don't find any Cabernet Franc scents but then I would forget about the purpose of the wine, uniting terroirs .

Dark cherries, leather, dried tobacco, spices, licorice and also slight sense of scorched earth. Held back on the nose, probably needing some more bottle age. On the palate it is Tuscan, oh yes, with that fine iron feeling, morello's, tobacco and bay leafs. Just a slight hint of oak. Fine balance and depth thanks to the acidity. The tannins are present but caressing the palate.

If this is an impossible challenge I leave to the Italians to decide, but perhaps it should be served nation wide on the 17th of March this year, when the country commemorates the 150th anniversary of the Italian Republic?

(2006 Quadratura del Cerchio, Roberto Cipresso, 90-91 p)

Can be purchased here.

10 signs why Cheetah fur isn't the thing....

A picture says a thousand words. Or, as in this case, awakens just as many. What message does the label transmit? Is it:

*

"Sometimes I just take an old cheetah fur, some grapes around my head, my Holy Grail, pop a mag and walk on sunshine..."

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"I know, but all my clothes were in the laundry basket."

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"Dude, where's the party!"

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"Who killed the cat?"

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"Greetings friends. I am Jean-Baptiste, your conferencier for the evening."

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"Casual Dezaley Friday?"

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"You try selling a Chasselas at 20+ Euros!"

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"Our target group are guys who like to dress Cheetah style."

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"No animals were harmed during the making of this label."

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"Come on and safari with me." (Sorry Beach Boys...)

*

* 

PS. Despite the label this is seriously good stuff. Posts on Swiss wines on the way....

PS.2. Yes, I've heard fur is trendy again but this is not what I visualized I must confess. Guess I'm getting old..

High-altitude Müller-Thurgau is, is, is....awesome!

For long it was believed to be a crossing between Riesling and Sylvaner. I remember already 15+ years ago, in my early fumbling in the world of wine, that I didn't get it. That is; take two quality grapes (yes, I do consider Sylvaner being one), cross them and you have the goodies of each grape. But how on earth could Riesling and Sylvaner end up in a Müller-Thurgau! Come on; Müller-Thurgau is Liebfraumilch!

Since Müller-Thurgau isn't poured on a regular basis at home I haven't given the genealogy much thought. Reading with ten years delay I'm therefore quite happy to see DNA fingerprinting determining a crossing between Riesling and Madeleine Royale (a table wine grape which ripens extremely early). Taught ya!

No, I'm not going to mock the creator, Hermann Müller. Au contraire dear reader, I want to thank him!

If you wan't to make good wine out of a grape that ripens early and probably are popular mainly thanks to that, large yields and adaptability, how do you proceed? Cultivating it 1,000 meters above sea level; could that be a good start?

At the wine route of South Tyrol, in Alto Adige, you will find the vineyards of Tiefenbrunner. Quite a big player on the scene, mainly focusing on white, they're still producing good quality wines filled with personality. The flagship wine, Feldmarschall, is a Müller-Thurgau! Flagship huh, how can he then call the other ones quality wines you perhaps wonder.

Grown in chalky soil at 1,000 meters above sea level I believe Tiefenbrunner has provided us with Müller-Thurgau's raison d'être because Feldmarschall rocks! Twice I've been impressed and a few weeks ago it was the 2008 with its floral notes, minerals in abundance and classy acidity showing Hermann Müller perhaps desverves some cred after all.

Not much color to the 2008 but the aromas are there; jasmine, green apples, wet rocks, green herbs and lime peel. Fine concentration on the nose. More tropical notes in the palate where some peaches show up. Cool minerality, jasmines and a high class acidity that adds considerable depth to the taste. Bonedry. Impressive length and pure but restrained fruit. Guess you need a weak spot for the floral styled wines to like this. Good thing I have that! Thanks Hermann.

(2008 Tiefenbrunner, Feldmarschall, Müller-Thurgau, Südtirol, 91-92 p)


PS. You can find the 2008 here.

PS.2. Yes, I know the art of crossing isn't that simple...

Words come easy...

Loyal followers probably remember my Cahors Malbec incomprehension post last year. You most likely also remember me slightly apologizing when I was poured the single vineyard Malbec's of Catena; Adrianna and Nicasia. Aah, what great wines which called for a revision of my Malbec status. 

Hard to believe but then came along an even better Malbec, also from Argentina; Achaval-Ferrer. The single vineyard wine of Finca Bella Vista version 2007 will get your full attention - as soon as it is in the glass that is. Because seriously, few will pay 60+ Euros for an Argentine Malbec when you can stick to safe and well-known brands. Acha...what?

Well, skip a bottle of an outrageously priced Bordeaux and treat yourself with a bottle of the Achaval wine. It will, most likely, be your best Malbec ever!

No need to write a whole tasting note essay on the 2007 Finca Bella Vista. I settle with summing it up the Homer Simpson way.

2007 Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista, Perdriel, Mendoza, 94-95 p

TN: Gaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Beat that tasting note profesional wine critics.


Want to buy a bottle? Der Wein Weber in Germany retails at EUR 61. A lot of money yes, but also a lot of wine!

Charles Smith; you rock!

Ask 1,000 randomly chosen wine consumers to pick their preference Riesling based on what visually attracts them the most; a wine bottle with a classic label filled with text such as Graacher Domprobst Kabinett Feinherb, or a wine named Kung Fu Girl? I know; it wouldn't look nice for the German huh? If you're not one of those conscious wine drinkers that claim they never buy a bottle by its looks you will probably admit you end up with the Kung Fu wine in your bag. You see, this is how most of us work. A cool label rocks. 

Now, you can't keep on selling an ass kicking kung fu girl if the girl doesn't deliver, something Mr. Smith is most aware about. A cool label does the job once or twice but then that's it. Have a glass of the 2009 Kung Fu Girl Riesling (87-88 p) and keep in mind Charles retails this at USD 12.  - then it is quite easy to become impressed. Easy sipping but still filled with character and site expression. That's the essence of Charles Smith's entrance wines whether they are called Kung Fu Girl, Eve, Boom Boom or The Velvet Devil. You don't have to analyze and write a thesis on them, just enjoy the wines.

"Take a mug shot", Charles said.

Meeting a man you've only read about before is exciting. Add meeting an ex rockmanager to that and it gets even better. There's a lot of writing on Charles out there in cyberspace and lately there's been some of negative art. Judging a person on what you read makes you narrow-minded and this is not my thing. Therefore it was thrilling to end up having Charles across me at the tasting and dinner last week letting the man present himself. Besides, how cool isn't it with an American pronouncing 'For satan mand' in really good Danish!

We share a year me and Charles. 1999. That was the year I decided to start working in the wine business in Copenhagen. The very same year Charles decided to leave the city and the life as a rock manager, to instead become a winemaker in Washington. By the way; did I sell you some wine Charles? I know you knew the shop...

When I think about it I'm more and more impressed. Charles brought a magnum of the 2003 The Hustler Syrah (93-94 p) to the tasting last week. How on earth did you manage to make such a fine wine when you'd only been in the business for a few years? Is that simply the fingerspitzgefühl the Germans talk about?

I died in my teens. Over the years I've listened to it hundreds of times. If there's just one Psyched up Janis song you should listen to, this is the one. How cool isn't it then to sit next to the band's ex manager knowing he even shared apartment with lead singer Sune Wagner. Bar crawling with Charles an evening would be great - suspect there's a story or two you can tell? For satan mand!

No dirty thoughts now but Hustler is great. The 2003 Syrah that is. 32 months on barrel, single vineyard Syrah; anyone up for some LaLaLa vibes? Named after Jackie Gleason aka “Minnesota Fats”, a big man light on his feet. About the wine Charles says: The wine will take you to the moon and back with its deep, deep flavor and super suave texture. So grab a bottle, pull the cork, fill your glass and “Away We Go”!

But even better and a wine that really, really caught my attention, was the 2006 K Syrah Wells (95-96 p). Writing about a wine you, dear reader, most likely never will get the chance to taste can be a bit provocative. I know that. Not that the Wells is outrageously prized, the reason is rather spelled 1/2 acre. Two barrels are produced from the rocky soil at 1500 feet up the south fork of Walla Walla River - and Charles poured a magnum of this. I think that is generous. Don't you? 

It's floral, perfumed in a restrained way making me write Cote Rotie. Cool, pure seductive fruit, clove and sausages. Would love serving this next to Guigal's Chateau d'Ampuis. All I have to do is dream...

I need you so that I could die

I love you so and that is why

Whenever I want you, all I have to do is dream

Dream, dream, dream, dream

Dream, dream

A great introduction to Charles Smith premium Syrah is the 2008 K Morrison Lane (91-92 p). Sourced from the oldest plantings of Syrah in Walla Walla this wine is approachable already in its youth. Quite Rhone-like in style. Something like Chateauneuf-du-Pape meets Saint-Joseph meets Charles Smith. Tar, licorice and bay leafs. Fine structure and good grip. Served with a wild boar Osso Buco which elevated the wine!

Blood sausage with Lardo. My favorite this evening!

Let's talk En Cerise. A vineyard on ancient dried riverbed in the floor of Walla Walla Valley. Biodynamically farmed and planted in 1997. From here Charles gets the fruit for his K Ovide. We're tasting the 2008 K Ovide En Cerise (93-94 p). It is absolutely gorgeous. A blend of 67 per cent Cab and the rest being Syrah. There's a Wells touch to it; lots of mineral feel and Rhone vibes although Cab dominates the blend. Massive, yet silky tannins and great delineation. Let this one lure you!

More Cab. The 2008 The Creator (93-94 p) has a similar blend percentage as En Cerise. What differs is the vineyard sites; Stoneridge, Cailloux and Morrison Lane. This is a step up on the taste pedestal. At least that is what my palate tells me. More of everything compared with En Cerise and here the Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't allow the Syrah to play along just as much. Still elegant and impeccably balanced. Which I prefer of the two? Both! 

The trilogy of Heart, Old Bones and Royal City are, well what can I say, majestic, huge, overwhelming, packed with flavors and just, just truly divine! I realize these wines will make traditionalists faint and I can actually visualize the "when in doubt, run in circles and shout"-critics reaction when tasting the 2007 Royal City. I don't care. I like it and for me that is what it's all about. All three of them has the stuffing to develop secondary aromas and will only benefit from many years in a horisontal position. That's easy to forget when tasting a young, vivid and concentrated wine just screaming for some bottle age.

These wines all origin from the Stoneridge Vineyard which is located northeast of the Wahluke Slope AVA, across the Saddle Mountains, near Royal City. Rocky soil, hence the name Stoneridge. A windy site, it naturally controls vigor and reduces yields, only 1.7 tons per acre. The fruit is thick skinned and produces nearly black juice and robust yet supple tannins, adding to the aging potential of the wine.Charles gets the Syrah for Heart from the southern section of the vineyard.

The 2007 Heart Syrah (95-96 p) is a blend of fruit primarily from the southern section of the vineyard. Not receiving as generous oak treatment as the Old Bones or the Royal City which I notice when tasting them side by side. Heart is pumped with dark berries, Christmas spices, humus, sausages and has a floral touch. Probably the most elegant of the three. On the palate it, to use Charles vocabulary when describing his wines, kicks ass. It's youthful and still a bit untamed but all the components are there. What talks directly to me is the pure seductive fruit. If I had any heart I would risk drinking them all just to get the kick out of the totally delicious fruit. 

Both the 2007 Old Bones (96-97 p) and the 2007 Royal City (96-97 p) gets a dose of oak to say the least. Being a bit of an oak junkie I don't mind. Both wines has the stuffing to handle the toasted notes. 

Foot chrushed by Charles. For a friend of Portuguese wines this is poetry to hear. Without going into detail on these wines which has a production on 167 respective 100 cases, I settle with the fact I'm totally in love with the super premium wines of Charles Smith. Hard to get yes, sadly, but if one really wants to taste it is not impossible. Besides, these retailed at USD 120-140 from K Vintners which add some perspective. Not cheap but for the experience it gives you?

A week after the tasting many of the wines are still on my mind. Charles too. And the labels, And the food paired with all the wines. Tasting wine for evaluation might be nice but there's no dout I prefer evenings like this. When wine is all about being fun!

Charles; you rock!

P.S. Want to listen to some more from Psyched up Janis? Check out this cover then. Kvinde min; perhaps Danish Gasolin's best one in a new version!

P.S.2. Labels are designed in co-op with Charles friend, Rikke Korff.

P.S.3. For the non Danish speaking section of my readers I wish to enlighten when it comes to the 'For satan mand' phrase. As you might have understood this belongs under the section of profanity. Too often used in the daily speech in Denmark it more or less means 'God damn it' and can be used both in a positive or less so context.

P.S.4. I was invited by the Swedish importer, Handpicked, to taste the wines of Charles Smith.

Anyone up for some competition?

Competition. A term that describes the idea of individuals or companies striving for a greater share of a market to sell or buy goods and services.

Modern micro-economic theory argues that competition promotes companies to develop new products, services and technologies, which in the end results in a greater selection and better products for the target group, the consumers. Greater selection generates lower prices for the products especially when comparing to other markets where monopoly or oligopoly sets the premises (or rather the non-existing ones!).  

Where competition exists one will also find the necessary laws setting the game rules. You see, there are players which are prepared to use methods that hardly can be considered compatible with competition on a free market. Cartels, monopolies or even state aid are examples of procedures where the involved might use methods that intend to exercise their market power and reduce other competitors chances within a certain field.

In the European Union the free flow of working people, goods, services and capital are of constitutional character and are regulated in the Rome Treaty. Competition is therefor of holy character. The purpose is simple. Competition are considered to increase economic efficiency in member states and removes barriers to trade between member states.

There's no doubt which EU institution has been the most successful during the decades the community/union has existed. Perhaps it depends upon whom you ask but speaking for myself, representing the end-user/consumer, I am thanking the EU-court for its independence and interpretation of the Competition Law part of the treaty. If it weren't for the court we wouldn't have essential decisions such as:

8/74 Dassonville (on the subject of the right to parallel imports from other EU-countries, also called Grey products)

120/78 Cassis de Dijon (on the subject of member states not hindering goods from other EU-countries, in order to protect the domestic market)

86/82 Hasselblad (on the subject of exclusive distribution agreements in order to prevent competition)

Over the decades there has been several more decisions in the field of competition and clearly there are many out there, prepared to take any necessary steps in order to prevent competition or in an illegal way, protect their brand.

So, what has this to do with wine? Sadly, for the consumer, EU Competition Law won't get all the bad guys. There's a grey-zone where the more subtle obstacles are to be found, and those putting this into action are more difficult to get hold of. Perhaps what I am about to tell you hardly comes as a surprise but still; it needs to be said again and again. Why? Because this is the European Union for god's sake; where the free flow of goods shouldn't be hindered - not if micro-economic theory on competition are to rely on. 

The following occurrences are all told to me from affected resellers in the wine bussiness - in EU-countries.

• Nothing new probably but I've heard from resellers that they are forced to offer certain producers wines at often ridiculously high end-user prices. If not, they have been told they won't be supplied in the future. One reseller was told that if they continued using their right to put own prices on a wine, it undermined the market for the product in question! Can anyone tell me what that means? Besides, since when where producers allowed to fix prices from resellers?

• From another I hear about two importers buying the same product to the same country. One was given a considerably lower price. The reason for this was, according to the producer, bigger volumes. Still, the other importer with less ordered volumes, sells at a lower price and is because of that claimed to dump prices (by the other importer). When checking in to it, the smaller importer found out that the bigger one had one price in the catalogue but did sell at lower to customers who bought around two cases. Prices similar then to the other importer who was accused to dump. Phone call from the wine producer to the small reseller: "Adjust prices or we will discontinue supplying you”. When notifying them that the other reseller sold at same price (but just didn't state it) they said they would demand them as well to raise prices.

• One wineshop told me that they were forced not to sell below the producer's cellar door price (which in this case was a lot, I mean a lot, higher than the purchase price of the reseller). The reseller could do a decent margin out of the price they asked. Still, if continuing the future supply was in danger. Why? The answer given was that the producer needed to protect other resellers. Isn't it touching? Producers taking a social and caring responsibility on their shoulders. Hoorah!

• One world famous brand from Italy refused to sell to a reseller in another EU-country given the reason they had an exclusive distributor there already. Upon contacting the distributor the quote given would have left the reseller with a gross margin of less then ten per cent if trying to stick with the two lowest competitors on the net.

• Another recognized brand said the same (exclusive distributor) and when the reseller checked with the distributor in the specific country they were told that they needed to buy four cases of an inferior wine as well for each case they wanted of the prestige wine. Perhaps something of a grey-zone but still; benefiting from the demand and requiring purchase of inferior wine is not fair trade.

• Next one; a reseller was told “we do not have any left” when contacting the world famous producer. Fine, they thought. Nothing to do about that. Next vintage - new call. Same answer which the reseller questioned. The response was: “You see, it is reserved for our regular customers who buy more than this wine from us. We can supply you but for every case you have to buy x cases of x or y or... " Then came the next reason: "We know you and we do not care for the disruptions you cause to the price structure in the market.” This ended up in the fact that the reseller bought on the Grey Market using parallel import - not that the wine was of that great personal interest for the reseller, but knowing it attracted buyers, they needed to be able to offer it.

Conclusion: It's a tough market out there. That's the core and whole essence of competition. Sadly this leads to the search for scrupulous methods amongst too many trying to protect their current position, brand and controling their resellers. Big or small companies doesn't matter; laws are seen as flexible but when they're stepped at themselves, they shout loud and demand protection. 

The issues for the reseller wanting to offer certain brands since it attracts buyers, are the fact that they won't get any allocations if they're not doing as told. And who dares to speak up knowing it will affect future business and realizing it eventually might even put them out of business? As always; the loosing party is the end-user; the consumer who ultimately pays the price.

How are you going to solve this Joaquín Almunia, responsible EU commissioner for competition?

Here comes the sun.

Little darling, it's been a long cold lonely winter
Little darling, it feels like years since it's been here
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun
and I say it's all right

Its been a while. The sun is not the most frequent guest at this latitude and the sporadic visits are easy to count. I guess it demands a certain willpower to accept this. If you're not native and have moved here from a more southern parallel, I guess the fact not seeing the sun for days must be something of a shock. Scandinavians have learned to live with it. We know our spring and summer are truly beautiful and worth waiting for. Short and intense yes, but probably the best in the world!

To keep away the winter blues some seek comfort in special light therapy lamps. Some goes on longer holidays to the south and some of us finds the light in a truly magnificent Syrah. This winter, Syrah has more than once blessed my day. La Landonne, La Mouline, La Turque and d'Ampuis all gave me those moments that will last until senility says otherwise. 

As good as it gets?

Then there's Le Sol. I know, I also thought it meant 'the sun' lacking any far-reaching skills in French. Soil. It means soil. Le Terroir.

I've had the fortune to taste 2007 Le Sol twice this winter. First at the Craggy Range booth when the kiwis invaded Stockholm for a tasting some months ago. I liked it. A lot. Out of all wines tasted that afternoon I went home with a new found knowledge; there's a LaLaLa in New Zealand as well and I just got to have some of these to taste at home!

Since I never get wine gifts for birthday or Christmas I knew there was only one way to compensate for this fear amongst givers; I had to buy my own Christmas present. So, having finally beaten all the mandatory Christmas sickness amongst the kids, the evening came - time for Le Sol.

When thinking of it I almost feel sorry for Le Sol. Popped the day before New Year's eve it didn't get the chance to make it to my yearly, but already posted, top list. Sure, it was my choice on the tasting but great wines are preferably tasted in a relaxed environment. I will solve this welfare problem by popping my last during 2011...

Le Sol deserves your attention. The Syrah from the Gimblett Gravels Vineyard on the ancient bed of the Ngaruroro river has its very own and unique style. The stony soil (and of course a bunch of other factors as well) has given name to a specific character that is found here; Gimblett dust meaning red wines with richness, excellent ripeness and elegance with a dusty tannin finish.

Hello bottled sunshine! Given several hours in the decanter. Already when popped and tasted I know I'm gonna like this. Man, the coming hours are going to be like Christmas from a child's point of view. When's that f-ing Santa coming? I can't wait! But hey, I'm an adult and realize that patience will reward my taste buds....

2007 Craggy Range Le Sol, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay (94-95 p)

Pure class on the nose. Dark berries, game, pepper and gently used oak (dark chocolate). Licorice and floral notes adds depth together with a dusty summer road/wet rocks feel to it. No doubt this is Syrah - the components are there and although Gimblett dusty, it is easy to start making northern Rhone parallels. Young yes, but so promising.

Great wines in great vintages masks the tannin structure in a way so you almost tend to forget they actually are there. The tannins that is. Le Sol in 2007 is such a wine. I love the combination of lavish amounts of sweet ripe fruit, a good shoot of the finest tannins, minerals; in this case wet rocks - and a bone dry taste. It's all about a constant journey for the nose and taste buds.

Intense and yet elegant with a creamy dark berries taste, bay leafs, licorice and a floral note that closes in on lavender. The oak is more evident in the taste but considering this is a long keeper it will integrate. That I won't doubt. Long, long and pure finish. Would have been a true joy to sit on a case of this and follow the coming decade - or two. I would probably have had mine within the first decade because I know how my brain works - why wait hysterically long for something that is already beautiful? But it will last. It will....

The snow is at least white...

Le Sol - my kind of light therapy when the spring and summer seems an eternity away!

Little darling, I feel that ice is slowly melting
Little darling, it seems like years since it's been clear
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun,
and I say it's all right
It's all right

N.B. Yup, it's The Beatles...

N.B.2. Although I have tasted quite a lot of NZ wines by now I still consider myself at a learning stage. This is both thrilling and at the same time a bit sad. I need to learn and understand but that means I can't buy a case of for example the 2007 Le Sol without reducing my continuing curiosity. I guess that's the downside of not being a millionaire...

N.B.3. Served with a big bird, an unbelievably unhealthy but worth-dying-for sauce, red cabbage, Brussels sprouts and almond potatoes. You guessed it; Danish Christmas eating. 

N.B.4. The NZ wine guru himself seems to be most pleased as well with the 2007.

The art of creating new references: When Saint Emilion moved to Hawke's Bay!

-Vintage? 

My generous friend stands there with a smile, knowing I'm confused. We've done this before at countless occasions; exposed each other for blind-bottles. 

-I'm thinking 1995 or 1998. It's maturing but has that gorgeous sweet fruit scent you find in great years.

Now I know he's pleased. He got me right where he wanted; in the land of confusion. 

-It has that almost late harvest feeling over it. I love it! The plums, the licorice, humus and some soy sauce and mushrooms luring in the background. It just screams out Merlot. And the structure and acidity, perfectly integrated oak....thanks for pouring! Can I have some refill?

I haven't said it yet but Michel Rolland seems to pop up in my head more than once. Could it be his Le Bon Pasteur? But a Pomerol? Isn't it more of a...of a Saint Emilion? Should I say it?

- I think it's a 1995.

-It's 1998.

Ok then. This should support my Saint Emilion track. Then perhaps....it do remind me a bit of the quite modern and often late harvested Troplong-Mondot. Can it be? My friend knows we visited the Chateau in '08 and we have split Troplong's before.

-But there is an intensity, I say, an intensity I can't place really.

My friend saves me and shows the bottle:

1998 Brookfields Gold Label Cabernet/Merlot

 
Soon to be 13 years old BDX-blend from Hawke's Bay. I'll say. Now I know kiwis age gracefully as well (just kidding; I knew that already)! This darling has several years left although it is, for my taste, a perfect drink now. Perhaps the vintage of the 90's but I still can't wait to taste more recent vintages with age and see if the quality continues up. If so, then this will become world class. 

1998 Brookfields Gold Label (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 5%), Hawke's Bay, 93-94 points

N.B. Decanted two hours ahead. No signs of cracking up during the extra hour in the glasses.

N.B.2. Brookfields is a small boutique-like winery but please all importers reading my blog: call, mail, tweet Peter Robertson and try to get this to your portfolio. Bordeaux-lovers will thank you.

N.B.3. Roasted lamb in the oven....what else! 

 

Weekly reflections of a wine lover - #61

So, tell me. Did you come up with any New Year's resolutions? I had one; I promised to start the new year's first day by organizing my part of the wardrobe. I failed miserably. Probably it was most deliberate since I'm not much into the resolutions stuff. Better then to fail directly.

However, I do have expectations for 2011, both personal and vinous ones. Looking back at everything I have been writing over the years it makes me a bit sad this is all in the past and forgotten about. I know, it's the Achilles heel of blogging. A wear and tear-way of reading. What's not newly published isn't interesting to read it seems. That I think, is a key factor for me to avoid if I am to keep up the ambition, motivation and not to forget the most important thing I wish to spread, passion. I need a slightly other form for my writing. I need an URL. A www. This is my promise to myself in 2011 to keep up the motivation!

Now the tricky part begins; finding a suitable name. Most are taken and although a majority of the domain names are registered in a cyber-squatting attempt to make money, meaning the names are not used but only parked while awaiting an offer, I won't fall for that. You can keep your names and pay the annual fee for eternity.

So 2011; bring me lots of new discoveries, new connections and new websites! Thanks for reading my irregular weekly mumbo jumbo newsletter no. #61.

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Resolutions. I said I already failed miserably with the one and only I gave. Perhaps it is more appropriate to talk about setting up visions. In that case I have countless of goals for 2011. My primary goal is to continue broadening my perspectives, meaning concentrating my curiosity to wines and the people behind them outside the classic wine regions. Especially one country needs to be checked out even more intensely than last year. New Zealand, my new darling. The same goes for Australian wines which definitely has caught my attention.

This doesn't mean I will forget about wines from Europe and stop drinking them. Not at all. I will just concentrate spending my sugar on kiwis. That's it.

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Talking about New Zealand listen to this. I recently bought some 2008 Elephant Hill Reserve Syrah (90-91 p) from the currently most thrilling Syrah region in the country; Hawke's Bay. It was good. I mean really good. Lots of classic Syrah character and a delicious taste with an acidity reminding me of northern Rhone. Obviously there's one per cent of Viognier in it as well. Not that I can brag I thought so but seriously speaking, having followed the wine through a whole evening and also tasted a glass the next day, makes me confident in saying this is quality stuff. Obviously my kiwi guru thought so as well.

 
What annoys me is this; I accidentally noted a Swedish wine reviewer tasting the wine and crying out a 'don't drink this'-warning in his newsletter since the wine had a burnt scent in the taste. Yicks it ended.

No matter how many readers you have, this I can't stand. Everybody have their right to express their thoughts but when you don't like a wine, please bear in mind that what you write will be read by others. Everybody that writes and have readers will most likely influence some and with wine-reviewing (as much else) comes a certain responsibility. Why don't I like the wine? Is it my personal taste only or is this wine either crappy or perhaps defect? Under which circumstances did I try it? Can the fact I tasted 70 wines that day affect my taste buds? Shall I retry it before publishing my judgement?

Personal taste is one thing and that I respect. Too hasty and judging comments are just unprofessional and should be reviewed more than once before publishing. Big or not; if a reviewer doesn't have this as a primary understanding one will never gain respect.

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Did you read my summarizing of 2010? The letter J? The cork industry seems to subscribe to the least wanted award every year and although we hear that a lot of effort is put in to reducing cork defects it's still there. I don't know if the cork people read my blog but I'm starting to suspect they broke in to my home and injected 2,4,6-trichloroanisole in the bottles I'd chosen for new year's eve!

We were having four wines during the evening and half of them were tainted. Badly. Both were from Bordeaux and quite exclusive if I may say so myself. At least when my palate decides.

The evening before I had prepared the red wine sauce for the main course. It was based on two bottles of red wine, both corked and I wanted to give them a chance to at least show some dignity. The sauce was great. But way too expensive. Both wines were of the kind that didn't need a cork since they're appreciated for their fruit and vivid character. But I guess it's just asking for too much. I mean, a Portuguese using screw-cap? Or as closure in a French quality wine?

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That reminds me, a Portuguese that goes screw-cap needs some praising! 

Right now screw-caps rock in my world.

Miguel Champalimaud's Quinta do Côtto must be one of few Portuguese who dares having an alternative closure that doesn't emanate from Alentejo. Miguel, I salute you for your guts!

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Hmmm...thinking of starting a new blog, just concentrating on wines with alternative closures.

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Something completely different than wine. Coffee. I got some Kopi Luwak beans for Christmas. Kopi Luwak is coffee made from the beans of coffee berries which have been eaten by the Asian Palm Civet. A civet eats the berries for their fleshy pulp. In its stomach, proteolytic enzymes seep into the beans, making shorter peptides and more free amino acids. Passing through a civet's intestines the beans are then defecated, keeping their shape. After gathering, thorough washing, sun drying, light roasting and brewing, these beans yield an aromatic coffee with much less bitterness, widely noted as the most expensive coffee in the world. Wikipedia explanation.

 
It sounds gross and one thing's for certain. I surely know I don't want to be a 'civet coffee berries excrement-picker' when I grow up! But you know what; this is good shit! No, actually it is fantastic coffee. Now I just wish I hadn't been introduced to Kopi Luwak. Knowing how good coffee can taste puts me in an awkward situation. I'm not supposed to put just as much on some shitty coffee beans every month as I do on wine!

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Something completely different than wine #2. Beer. No attempt here to sound like a beer pro. I know what I like but it pretty much stops there. But I need to tell you about my kind of malt beverage and the beer of the year in 2010. 

Brewmaster Thomas Kipka and co-owner Jens Boysen has a most thrilling project on the German island of Sylt.Their Sylter Hopfen cost just as much as a budget Champagne but is such a superior experience. I guess the real beer aficionados doesn't go for this kind of beer as much as I do but it is easy to fall for the elegance and the lovely taste which is sweet and at the same time acidic. Alcohol like a Belgian ale, acidity like a Madeira and brettanomyces like a Beaucastel.  Seriously good stuff and worth the 20 Euro price tag!

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Back to Beaujolais and their great 2009 vintage. If you're reading my irregular week letter you know I'm checking out the 2009 from this too forgotten about region. Time has come to praise Chateau Thivin in Côte de Brouilly.

Claude and Evelyne Geoffay's single vineyard Le Clos Bertrand (91-92 p) is one for the cellar! Delicious now as great wines tend to be in great vintages, but patience will be awarded. This one has a mineral driven taste that fascinates, acidity to complement and a tannin structure I seldomly find in Beaujolais. Forget about Burgundies at £15 a bottle. Buy some Thivin instead and fall in love with the true potential of Gamay!

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Starting the new year with lumbago. Could have been better....

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I really tried to find a yick-like burnt scent in that Elephant Hill. I really did.

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By the way. Don't expect to bump into the enormous creatures if you visit Elephant Hill. Saving you the disappointment already here and now!

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2010 - An odyssey from A to Z

It's time to sum up 2010. As always I prefer staying positive but one can't constantly smile - especially not after having popped yet a cork tainted bottle.

If you have followed me this year as well, or is a newcomer to Mise en bouteille, doesn't matter. I'm happy to have you here during my first year as an English-written wineblog. At first I wondered a bit what the heck I was doing; giving up on a nice amount of Swedish followers just to jump out there amongst hundreds (thousands?) of English written wineblogs. But then I kept on reminding myself; wine is not limited to where you live; it is a beverage of  global perspectives with aficionados all over the world - and then it was an easy decision to stick to.

Initially visitors obviously dropped me because the loss in readership was substantial. Now, almost a year later, I can easily say it was the correct  decision to take. The readers are back and by far even more. I've gotten to know a bunch of fantastic wine personalities thanks to an international language -  and I have new friends all over the world.

2010 is without doubt my best blogging year so far. Why? Easy. I've finally taken that last step realizing there's so much more the wine world offers than classic European regions. Prejudices rule and easily takes over one's attitude. But in 2010 I've put just as much effort in finding those hidden treasures out there, especially non-Europeans, and boy, did that give me a wake up-call!

Summing up my vinous 2010 is not easy; my classic approach has seen a drastic turn and a majority of my UK-in bond cellar which was seriously Bordeaux dominated, has dramatically switched character. And yes, there's one country above all that especially has found a way directly to my heart.

Again, thanks to all of you following my writings. Next year will see some blog changes which currently do take a lot of my time. Hopefully something good comes out of it...

Ahl-Yahn-Eh-Ko of the year

I have a weak spot. No, I have many when I think of it. Anyway, one of them is called Aglianico. I was introduced to this too little spoken of-grape already 15+ years ago, and already then it was love at first sight. D'Angelo took care of that. But along the road I forgot about the southern Italian pride and only occasional encounters reminded me of the grape's existence. This summer though I was again hit by the Aglianico-love and now I've promised myself I won't let go! 

Selvanova and Antonio Buono reminded me of just how d-mn good Aglianico can be. Some call it the Nebbiolo of the south. I call it.....Aglianico.

Bastard of the year

Me, or Bastardo? I know; I'm a hopeless wine romantic. Chasing grapes no-one ever heard of isn't a mission of mine but can easily be the impression one gets from reading my postings. However, if you're a Madeira nut you will sooner or later get in contact with rarities such as Bastardo or Terrantez. Therefore it was a moment of both nostalgia and sadness when I finally this year got the chance to see some of the last Bastardo grapes on Madeira. 

It is easier to understand Bastardo's loss of popularity compared with the outstanding Terrantez, but still; it is sad we won't see any vintage Bastardo like the 1927 anymore. Not during my lifetime at least.

Christ(os) of the year

"Christos clearly demonstrates in his wines that he's more than a pharmacist. He's an artist as well! I guess some just has that special 'je ne sais quoi' feeling when it comes to producing great wines - with or without prior training."

Kokkalis aspires on the next award as well and I am just so happy I got the chance to taste his truly great Trilogia which demonstrates that Greek wine should be taken seriously. 

 Honestly, I know I should keep my 2008's for some years but I simply can't wait to have yet a glass of the best Greek red I've  ever tasted! Christos rocks!

Discovery of the year

You can't taste it all but I am still surprised how I could miss out on Nerello Mascalese. Until this year! Six years ago when we went to Sicily it was all  about Nero d'Avola. Nerello what?

Thanks to the Quota 600 from Alberto Graci I'm now catching up. Nerello Mascalese from high-altitude sites are the quintessence of elegance and ethereal wines. I guess the acidity freak in me awakens when Mascalese is poured. Still, all of us won't fall in love with the style but this is my blog and I'm crazy about Etna. Next time on Sicily I promise; I will have my share of Nerello-wines. Hear, hear!

  

Exit of the year
   
Sayonara Bordeaux! Mise en bouteille has left the building. 

Me and my wallet have had it with overpriced wines, which at the levels I can afford, most of the times are not nearby in quality with many other wines around the world. I've now sold a majority of my Bordeuax cellar in UK and have realized that although I love a great BDX I've been hiding behind them as well. Now when I'm released I have discovered a myriad of wines I probably like more. 

So, thank you Bordeaux. You've opened my eyes! Oh, and by the way. Thanks to all who bought my cases at BBR's commission sale.

Feelgood of the year

It's been a great day. We've been at Pico Arieiro, checked out the little villages on the north easthern coast, seen some amazing vineyards and have just finished our dinner on the terrace. 

The view is amazing with Funchal and Cabo Girão in the horizon. Sunset. Still 17-18 C. Barely no wind. A glass of H.M. Borges 10 years old Malmsey. One of those moments in life that will last until senility says otherwise!


Gillette of the year

"This is one of those wines I really need once in a while in order not to question my wine passion. It stirs up emotions, speaks directly to the heart and is simply put; a dream to taste!"

With razor-sharp delineation the 2006 La Mouline carves perfection and demonstrates when Cote-Rotie is this good, it doesn't matter if your name is
Petrus or Lafite. You won't stand a chance. Not if my palate decides! When I get rich I will buy cases of this. Just so you know....

Holy shit of the year

Luís d'Oliveira is a true gentleman. Always have time for me and my questions. But there's one moment I'll treasure more than any else and that is when Luís made me feel like Jancis Robinson for one afternoon! Vintage after vintage he poured me, and just when I thought it was impossible to fill my head with more impressions he geared up. 


A 135 years ride in four hours. Eat that Einstein! O divino aqui tão perto - as close to heaven as you get!

"I'm 89 points on that"-of the year

Sorry wine. You missed Suckling's site by 1 point. I guess no-one has been more attacked and yelled at this year than James Suckling. In some degree it is self-induced, perhaps more, but clearly much of this could have been avoided if the purpose would have been more clear from the beginning. Maybe the circus would have stayed a storm in a teacup if James had said from the start that he was after the label-drinkers and their money. Or perhaps it wasn't more than just a storm in a teacup all the time? 

Still, it leaves me with a bitter aftertaste and feeling stupid for using points.

Judas of the year

Basically I can copy last year's disappointment since the cork industry seems like having an urge to subscribe to the least wanted award on my A-Z list. One bottle after the other is cork tainted. Just the other day a 2009 Morgon. Why did that need a cork by the way? Cork as closure must be questioned more - at least since most wines don't need the cork considering they're consumed within their first years of life.

But perhaps my aversion towards cork as closure is just as much an irritation against the winetrade not compensating a tainted bottle cellared the time a producer says it should. Hide behind consumer laws at first, then claim it has been stored too long so compensation is not possible. As the end-user I'm the one paying for the shit ultimately.

Kung Fu-kick of the year

Malbec kicks ass! At least mine. Some Argentinian Malbec's obviously heard my jeremiad on Cahors and came to give me a lesson. Single vineyard sites such as the Adrianna, Argentino, Nicasia and Finca Bella Vista; I thank you for making me believe in Malbec again. What wines - I mean; this is close to world class! No, this is world class! 

By the way, thanks to Elena Catena I'm now a Chimichurri-junkie! 

Label of the year
 
There's something about Polena from a Sicilian favorite of mine, Donnafugata. I love the colours, the simple but yet elegant drawing. Feels perfect for the content; equal parts of Cataratto and Viognier.

Labels and shape do affect us more than we would like to believe. I know what attracts me. I think. Do you know what you fall for?




Mate of the year

"This is exactly what I want in a great Chardonnay. Lots of presence, careful oak treatment and an aroma just screaming out its place of origin. As the acidity freak I am, things just get better on the palate. Simply put, this is exactly what Chardonnay is all about."

Nope, it's not a Chablis Grand Cru. It is Kumeu River's 2007 Mate's Vineyard from Auckland. We just need to learn how Chardonnay tastes like outside of France and that the too often used terroir-word (at least when you wan't to feel superior) is not something that the French own. Served blind you will fool many europhiles with this one!

Naturalment of the year

Of course. Why didn't I think of that before? The soil in the southern of England is similar to the one in Champagne and also the climate shows similarities. 

But British fizz; can it really be something? Heck yes! Sussex-based RidgeView Estate clearly demonstrated that a couple of times 2010 when we had the impressive 2006 Grosvenor Blanc de Blancs. I suppose the psychological barrier in this case is: 1. British fizz. 2. £20-25. 3. Come on, British fizz! 

Onkaparinga of the year

2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Is that a good year? Can't find any information on that....

Being a wine nut or not; you can't have missed out on the hysteria surrounding the Pope wines anno 2007. That is why I'm instead pushing for the 2006 Onkaparinga from Clarendon Hills. C9dP don't need my support but if you love Grenache and yet haven't discovered the Aussie version; shame on you. But hey, you're forgiven. 

Just get going and pick up an Onkaparinga - "I think this is the start of a beautiful friendship".


Pinosity of the year

"Quite dark for a Pinot. Wow! Already when closing in on the bouquet you sense what's gonna hit the nose! Dark cherries, wild strawberries, leather,
humus/compost, spices and rose petals. Perfectly integrated oak. Still young but such awesome concentration on the nose and still managing to stay elegant....I'm already all yours dear Omihi."

I could have stayed conservative and picked a Burgundy - or perhaps extended my caution to Germany. But let's face reality. New Zealand is not a newcomer anymore and they've shown us more than once they know how to treat Pinot. Sadly, Daniel Schuster went into receivership last year but that doesn't stop me from saluting his 2006 Omihi. Nope, Kiwi's aren't here to watch and learn anymore; they're now competing with the best around the world.

Queen of the year

Yes, Douro knows how to handle Touriga Nacional but for me the greatest expressions and interpretations emanates from Dão where the grape reigns. The combination of high altitude sites resulting in classy natural acidity, protected surroundings, the soil mainly consisting of granite and sand and the backing up of Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrocheiro Preto, results in wines right up my alley. 

Dão might be one of the most underrated high quality wine-regions in the world. If the ambassadors of great Dão shall be able to continue their work more consumers needs to discover the wines. Why don't start with one of Portugal's most promising winemakers, Filipa Pato, and her amazing 2008 Lokal Silex. Filipa and Touriga Nacional, the two queens of Dão?

Region of the year

When you have indigenous grapes and stick to them despite knowing how hard it is to convince the consumer, you deserve a medal. Especially when not falling for the trick to plant international grapes and just become yet a Chardonnay/Cabernet/Syrah-producing region in the world. 

The quality boom in Portugal's biggest region, Vinho Verde, is amazing. Few know about the grapes beyond Alvarinho and yet the producers continue with Loureiro, Trajadura and Vinhão to mention just a few. Wines stuffed with personality and quality are the future. Vinho Verde has all the potential to continue on their growing recognition and make 2011 their year. Not convinced yet? Have some Quinta de Gomariz and you will be! 

Sister of the year

Man, can Chris Camarda handle that grape juice or not! The premium wine 2006 Sorella went straight to my heart and started my Bordeaux exit. A case of '05 Duhart-Milon Rothschild gave me two cases of the Andrew Will-wine. Buy of the year! 

Sorella proofs that Washington produces world class wines and that it's worthy of our attention. 

Not only is Andrew Will's premium bottling a great wine, it is also a homage to two women in his life; his late sister and his late wife. Wine is many times more than just wine; they also tell us personal stories. Perhaps knowing the reason behind some wines makes us drink them with even more respect?




Terrantez of the year

My blogs are not about bragging. Readers in search for articles namedropping great wines will be disappointed if they find their way to me. Yes, I've had divine centennial Terrantez this year but come on; it's much more fun to share experiences that actually are possible for most us to find.

Henriques and Henriques deserves a medal for doing their part to preserve Madeira's greatest grape. The newly released 20 Years Old Terrantez shows just how much personality the grape offers. It's ethereal, it's mystical, it's Terrantez!

Unglaublich of the year

Hi! Do you wan't to buy my Blaufränkisch? It's only 50 euros! 

Toni Hartl is either a genius or crazy. At least that was my thought before tasting his premium wine, Eisner. When I learnt he put his Blaufränkisch Eisner in French oak for 40 months, I seriously started believing he was crazy.

Tasting wines like the 2006 Eisner makes you humble. It just shows the diversity out there and that great wine can emanate from many grapes. Choose Austria. Choose Neusiedlersee. Choose Toni Hartl. Choose Eisner. Choose Blaufränkisch!

Verse of the year

"Sometimes it takes longer than a lifetime to do a lifetime's work… it's now up to my children." 

Poetry I tell you. This is poetry! To reach such insight must be close to both Nirvana and ultimate frustration. Nevertheless, the words of the late Jim Barry describes exactly what wine many times are all about: You can't stress your way to success. Patience is needed and sometimes that means waiting for generations. 

The 2006 The Armagh is a perfect example of that! A monumental wine that those with patience and fortune will speak about in 2025.

Winemaker of the year

How am I to choose a winemaker of the year? So many deserves attention for what they're doing. My choice had a personal approach. Rianie Strydom made me believe in South-African red wines again, showing that you don't have to talk about burnt scents in every single wine. It will be a true pleasure to follow her Pillars Shiraz or the BDX-blend, IV, the coming years. These are high-class wines competing with many more well-known labels. 

Nice meeting you Rianie!


Xanadu of the year

Madeira is our idyll. Guess most of my readers got the message by now. Our five week stay on the island in February and March earlier this year were most welcome. Leaving the cold records in Sweden and switching that with green lawns pleased not only our eldest daughter. 

Beautiful sceneries, great people, lovely food and, and, and...fantastic wines! Madeira is our Xanadu on earth. Miss you!



Youth of the year
 
Believe the hype! 2009 is a great vintage for many wine regions. Sadly most of the writings are centered around the ridiculously overpriced Bordeaux-wines that now are an exclusivity for the rich around the world. 

But do you remember Beaujolais? No, I don't mean the cheating and court cases which seem to be how the region's been thought of the last years. I mean 2009. I mean Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Morgon and Moulin a Vent. Never have there been a better chance to taste great Gamay at prices you didn't think were possible! Stock up with 2009 Beaujolais Cru and fall in love with the ultimate potential of Gamay!

Zealander of the year

In 2009 I wasn't much aware of Waipara's existence. Kathryn Ryan has made sure I now am! 

Her Mountford Vineyard wines are right up my alley and I can't get enough of it. The mixture of the best from France with Kiwi know-how is a good combo. I will keep this short because otherwise Kathryn will be embarrassed of all the praising. Kathryn; Zealander of the year here on Mise en bouteille.